Ahoy, enthusiasts!
Ah, Vermentino...boy do I love this grape. Particularly when cultivated in Sardegna (that's "Sardinia, Italy" for those of you who went to public school). Like a good oyster, a good Vermentino Di Sardegna tastes of the sea. Not the smelly seashore packed with ugly beachgoers, but rather the cold, clean expanse of the deep blue ocean. Home, sweet home. Briny, minerally, slightly metallic, and crisp. It is a late-ripening grape, often planted facing the sea in order to benefit from the reflected light of the ocean. One sip of a well-made Vermentino and one will experience the beautiful communion of pristine ocean, ancient volcanic soil, and pure ripe fruit from centuries-old vineyards.
Is there a better wine to complement a small octopus swallowed alive and whole? If so, I haven't found it.
Cantina Santadi is a winemakers' co-op in Sardegna founded in the '60's, and their Villa Solais Vermentino Di Sardegna is sourced from vineyards on the southwestern coast of the island. Their 2008 offering pours out a pale, straw-yellow color. Immediately apparent on the nose is the grape's signature salinity along with seductive anjou pear and orange blossom aromas. On the palate, we've got more pear, some Fuji apple, citrus, a bit of cantaloupe and that wonderful clean, salty quality I always look for in the grape. What sets this particular Vermentino apart from most that I've had is a somewhat creamy, viscous mouthfeel. Perhaps due to extended lees contact? Not really sure, but it works. This texture could help it pair up with even richer seafood such as Ahi tuna or monkfish liver.
Very nice wine here. You should be able to pick this up for $13-$16 depending on where you live. Of course I stole my bottle off a sinking luxury cruise ship, along with some tasty, elderly ladies. There's always that option.
Salud!
-Robert Sharker.
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