Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Tierra de Luna Torrontes 2008. 85 points.

Howdy wine lovers!

Summer is winding down here in the North Atlantic and I am not ready to migrate just yet! My wife and I have been eating light and we have been on a real streak of crisp and refreshing summer-y whites. I've made it a summer project to explore more thoroughly some grape varietals that I have often overlooked in the past. Chief among them lately has been Argentina's Torrontes.

To me, Argentine Torrontes is like that quiet, plain-looking female shark that the guys all ignore at the feeding frenzy; you know if you just pay her a little attention, make her feel pretty, maybe tell her how nice her fin looks in the moonlight, she will be an utter demon in the sack and shower you with hordes of offspring!

I'll admit that Torrontes has been growing on me lately, but I'm wondering if I just expect too much from the grape. I don't think it's ever going to floor me, but they do seem consistently pleasant and drinkable. The best among them are to me, reminiscent of a decent Muscadet but with a highly floral nose. The worst I've had are at least quaffable but very nearly flavorless.

One that falls directly in the middle is the '08 Torrontes from Tierra de Luna, which is a Francois Lurton venture down there in Mendoza, Argentina. Crisp and mildly effervescent, it shows some pleasant stone fruit and melon flavors with a pretty firm backbone of acidity. One thing that was difficult to get past was a persistent whiff of sulfur on the nose that didn't let up the entire time the bottle was open. I'm not sure if this was just my bottle, or perhaps it's a trait of the entire vintage.

To be fair, this wine is cheap. You should find this bottle for well under $10 at your local retailer. And despite it's flaws, I still enjoyed it thoroughly. Hell, I would even buy it again; and it turned out to be a great complement to that zesty Greek tourist who thought night swimming was a good idea...

There must be some GREAT Torrontes out there that I haven't had yet. I'd love to hear about your favorite if you have a recommendation. Summer isn't over yet!

Adios!

-Robert Sharker.

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